Flight 93 Memorial

The Visitor's Center at the Flight 93 Memorial will officially be dedicated tomorrow.  I remember that morning hearing that one of the planes had crashed in Pittsburgh.  Of course no one knew what was happening - it was all unfolding in terrifying real time.  The plane crashed near Shanksville, PA, not too far from the PA turnpike.  Since I travelled the PA turnpike quite often in those years, I figured out with Dad where Shanksville was and on one trip I went to see the site, though the park had not been developed at that point.  Western PA is the place that feels like home to me.  It's peaceful and beautiful and vast, with rolling hills and farmland and spectacular fall foliage.  Hopefully a peaceful resting place.  

Here's what Paul Murdoch, the architect of the memorial said about it:

“In its raw severity, we acknowledge their sacrifice. In its solemn darkness, we acknowledge their loss. In its calm serenity, we offer solace at their final resting place. And in its monumental scale, we praise their heroic deeds.”

'Soaring Spirit' climbing rose planted in the 'Remember Me' memorial rose gardens and also in my backyard in remembrance of those who lost their lives on 9/11

Some Plants you should try

Try these plants in your garden - you will be rewarded with long-lasting and beautiful flowers.  And we all know there can never be enough flowers!

Hydrangea macrophylla Everlasting Revolution - Many different colors of blooms on the same plant

Hydrangea Everlasting Revolution with green tinge as blooms ageThe plant grows to about 3 ft X 3 ft with sturdy stems and deeply-toothed leaves  Hydrangea macrophylla  Cultivar name: 'Hokomarevo'.  The color changes on a single Revolution shrub are incredible.  You will see combinations of deep pink, maroon and blue blooms, all with green highlights as the flowers mature.  Every color can be present at once on this heavily re-blooming shrub.  It's as if all the colors and combinations possible in the Hydrangea family have come together in a single shrub.

"Everlasting™" is a Dutch series, and it was originally bred for the cut-flower market, so the emphasis is entirely on the blooms. The flower stems are stronger and straighter than those of many other Hydrangeas, ensuring that the blooms won't flop or twist.  The flowers are ultra long-lasting and quite large, especially when seen on the plant, which is just 3 to 4 feet high and wide.

It needs consistently moist soil and a bit of shade. Do not allow it to dry out completely, but make sure the soil drainage is good.  Zones 5-9.

Rosa X 'Citrus Burst'

Rosa X 'Citrus Burst'

This climbing rose has flowers with soft pink and yellow stripes that repeat steadily all summer.  It has a light green apple fragrance and a vigorious grower, reaching up to 12 feet.  It has excellent disease resistance and with dark green, very glossy foliage.  Bloom Season: spring to fall. 

Clematis Still Waters

Clematis Still Waters™ - "Dependable performance and soothing lavender tones." Cultivar Name: 'Zostiwa'.

Still Waters™ produces pale lavender-blue 4-inch blooms with maroon centers.  It starts blooming in June and flowers freely, reblooming all summer.  The pale blooms hold their color beautifully - a long-lasting play of light against warmer colors.  It is a Group 3 Clematis, meaning that it blooms primarily on new wood (making it "easy" to grow because you can cut it back each year).  Every spring you should prune it back to about 2 feet from the ground.  

Bred in the Netherlands, Still Waters™ is a Proven Winners® ColorChoice® plant chosen for its exceptional beauty and performance.  To be selected for this group, it was thoroughly tested in trial gardens all around the world, and found to have superb health, vigor, and color.

You commonly read that Clematis prefer light shade, especially on their roots.  But I've also learned from experts that this "preference" is because many people don't plant Clematis correctly.  Just like tomato plants, they should be planted with their crowns 2 – 3 inches deeper in the ground compared to the pot-dirt-level to encourage robust root growth.  The first set of true leaves should be under the soil surface.  This allows the plant to grow a strong root system – critical for a vigorous vine.

I know, I know.  This goes against everything we’ve ever heard about “don’t plant too deeply or you’ll kill the plant.”  Tomatoes and Clematis break that rule.  They sprout roots from nodes along the buried stem, and these extra roots strengthen the plants so that they can support more fruit (tomato) or climb more vigorously and produce more flowers (clematis).  With proper planting, watering until establishment (and during periods of drought) and mulch to conserve soil moisture, Clematis should do just fine without "cool" or "shaded" roots.  Remember to keep the mulch several inches away from the crown, where the vines emerge from the soil.

Old habits die hard, but I've tried it a number of times and it really does work work.  Clematis is "finnicky" no longer!  You can get Clematis Still Waters™ and a great selection of other Clematis and other types of vines and climbers mail-order from Brushwood Nursery.  They propagate from cuttings, and ship again starting Sept through Nov (although last I checked they are out of stock for Still Waters™).  I've been very pleased with their quality and I've tried small-flowered Clematis and non-vining Clematis varieties as well – both turn out to be unusual and beautiful (and low-maintenance as well).  It’s a cheap and easy way to add flowers to your landscape, especially if you have trellises, gazebos, garden arches or stone walls for the vines to grow on.

Zones 5 to 9.

The food web - what is the role of fungi?

Disclaimer:  Before you read further, this may be the product of a science nerd.  I learned several new terms during the research for this entry, including my new favorite "phyllosphere" - which I will be using in sentences as much as possible from now on!
Someone asked me recently what powdery mildew was and if it harmed the tree.
Before I could answer the question, I had to understand the role of fungus in the food web, since powdery mildew is caused by a fungus.  It turns out that it's all about the disposition of energy and nutrients in the food web.
  • A food web is a graphic concept describing "who eats whom" in an ecosystem.  Every living thing—from single-celled algae to giant blue whales—needs food to survive.  How that living thing gets its food is part of a complex pathway that energy and nutrients follow through the ecosystem.
Organisms within an ecosystem are generally divided into categories called "trophic levels" – referring to whether they produce their own food ("producers"), eat other organic matter that is living or recently killed ("consumers") or eat non-living plant and animal remains ("detritivores, saprotrophs, decomposers").
  • Producers, also known as "autotrophs", make their own food.  Autotrophs are usually plants or single-celled organisms.  Nearly all autotrophs use a process called photosynthesis to create “food” (glucose) from sunlight, carbon dioxide, and water. 
Primary consumers, or herbivores, eat plants.  Secondary consumers eat the herbivores.  Tertiary consumers eat the secondary consumers.  Consumers can be carnivores (animals that eat other animals) or omnivores (animals that eat both plants and animals).  
  • Detritivores feed on any dead or organic biomass including animals, plants, and feces.  They ingest the decomposing biological matter, digest it internally, and shed nutrients in simple forms that plants can easily absorb from the soil.  The earthworm is a classic example of a terrestrial detritivore, but slugs, woodlice, dung flies, millipedes, and most of the worms are some of the other examples. 
  • Saprotrophs feed on decaying or dead plant matter.  Fungi species predominate among saprotrophs due to their ability to digest lignin in the xylem tissues of plants.  Saprotrophs don't have an internal digestive system.  Instead, they secrete digestive enzymes such as proteases, lipases, or amylases onto the substrates.  This type of extracellular digestion transforms lipids into fatty acids and glycerol; proteins into amino acids, and polysaccharides (e.g. lignin, starch) into glucose and fructose.  These simplified nutrients are absorbed into the fungi through an active transport means called endocytosis – this is how they get their nutrition.  
The ecological role of the saprotrophs is vital for nutrient cycling and energy flow since they consume matter that is difficult for others to break down.
  • Detritivores are mostly animals while saprotrophs are mostly fungi.
  • Detritivores consume lumps of dead organic matter separately, while saprotrophs absorb chemically digested food.
  • Saprotrophs digest their food externally, whereas detritivores do it internally in the digestive system.
  • Detritivores shed most of the digested matter unabsorbed, whereas saprotrophs absorb the entire digested matter to use for their own growth, repair, and reproduction.
Decomposers - fungi and bacteria - turn organic wastes into inorganic materials, such as nutrient-rich soil.  
Detritivores, saprotrophs and decomposers function to complete the cycle of life, returning nutrients to the soil or oceans for use by autotrophs.
  • Different habitats and ecosystems provide many possible food chains that make up a food web.  As an example, a grazing food web has plants or other photosynthetic organisms at its base, followed by herbivores and various carnivores.  A detrital food web, mostly bacteria or fungi, recycles organic material back into the biotic part of the ecosystem.  Since all ecosystems require a method to recycle material from dead organisms, most grazing food webs have an associated detrital food web.  For example, in a meadow ecosystem, plants may support a grazing food web of different consumers, while at the same time supporting a detrital food web of bacteria, fungi, and detrivorous invertebrates feeding off dead plants and animals.
  • Producers receive their energy from light by means of photosynthesis.  After this, the energy in organic matter flows from producers to the different levels of consumers.  However, at each trophic level, energy is always lost.  All of the trophic levels lose energy as heat through cell respiration.  Also, as the organic matter passes from one trophic level to the next, not all of it is digested and energy from organic matter is lost through feces.  This energy then passes on to the detritivores and saprotrophs.  Another energy loss occurs through tissue loss and death which can happen at any trophic level.  Once again, this energy would be passed on to detritivores and saprotrophs as they digest these.  Detritivores and saprotrophs, in turn, lose energy as heat through cell respiration. 
Energy is not recycled.  Since the energy in organic matter is continually being lost as it flows through the ecosystem, energy in the form of sunlight must be constantly re-supplied.  Nutrients on the other hand have to be recycled.  There is only a finite supply of them - they are absorbed from the environment, used by living organisms and then returned to the environment.
  • Fungi that act as decomposers are essential recyclers of nutrients in an ecosystem.  Without these fungi, forest floors would be covered in plant debris and animal carcasses; similarly other ecosystems would have a vast amount of waste piled up.  Without fungal decomposition, nutrients in the soil would be used up, and plants would not have food and couldn’t survive.  If plants don’t survive, the animals that depend on plants for food would also suffer, and the whole food chain would collapse. 
Since transferring nutrients from fungi to the soil is such an integral part of the food chain, some organisms team up with fungi to form symbiotic relationships.  Mycorrhizal fungi, for example, form a symbiotic relationship with plant roots; the plant provides the fungi with carbohydrates, and the fungi in return transfer nutrients like phosphorus to the plant.
  • Endophytic fungus lives within a plant for at least part of its life without causing apparent disease.‪   Endophytes are ubiquitous and have been found in all the species of plants studied to date, but most of these endophyte/plant relationships are not well understood.  Many economically important grasses (e.g., Festuca spp. [Fescue], Lolium spp. [Ryegrass], Zea [Maize]) carry fungal endophytes that are believed to enhance host growth‪ and improve the plant's ability to tolerate abiotic stresses, such as drought, and resistance to insects and mammalian herbivores.‬‬‬‬   For example, endophyte-containing tall fescue is now being planted in areas where people want to deter geese from eating the grass, since it seems to be unpalatable to them.‬‬
While most fungi aid the function of the ecosystem and contribute positively to the food chain, some fungi are harmful to and can even destroy plant life.  An epiphytic fungus is a fungus that grows upon, or attached to, a living plant.  Ephiphytic fungi are part of the mycobiota infesting the plant's phyllosphere, or leaf surface, along with other species of fungus and other organisms.  If cultural conditions (temperature, humidity, soil moisture etc ) result in a disturbance of the equilibrium between "good" and "pathogenic" organisms in the phyllospere, a pathogenic epiphyte like the fungus causing powdery mildew can precipitate plant disease.
  • Powdery mildew fungi are obligate, biotrophic parasites.  Infection by the fungus is favored by high humidity but not by free water.  During the growing season, hyphae are produced on leaf surfaces and specialized absorption cells, termed "haustoria", extend into the plant epidermal cells to obtain nutrition - this can eventually kill a heavily infected leaf.  "Conidia" (asexual spores) are also produced on plant surfaces during the growing season.  They develop on specialized hyphae called conidiophores that are frost-resistant and can overwinter in leaf litter. 
Certain fungal species that cause wood rot are also epiphytic and gain access to wood at a wound site where the bark is breached.  Although trees have mechanisms to compartmentalize the spread of fungi, if large areas of dead tissue spread through the tree, its nutrient supply is cut off and its structural integrity is compromised.  
  • But even as pathogens, the role of fungi can be seen as beneficial to the ecosystem as a whole.  Tree death is a natural and necessary aspect of the forest ecosystem.  The death of large old trees is necessary for the regeneration of new trees and the continuation of the forest.  Death is necessary for life.  Tree diseases that attack especially weak trees can improve the overall vigor of a stand.  In addition, the death of a large tree in the forest creates a gap in the canopy, letting sunlight reach the forest floor and allowing the regeneration of species that would not otherwise grow in the shade of the tree.  Therefore, tree death can improve the diversity of the forest.  This is important because diversity confers resilience to a system.  Pathogens often have some degree of host specificity, meaning they only attack certain species of trees.  A forest that contains only one type of tree is in danger of being completely obliterated by a single pathogen, whereas the damage would be more confined in a forest with greater species diversity.

 

 

Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, Richmond VA

My smart and sweet niece is going to start at the University of Richmond this fall, and it just so happens that Richmond has a Botanical Garden - can't wait to see it!  There are some stunning pictures on line - I've added a few below - including a treehouse that is part of the children's garden.

Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden overviewThe water feature in the sunken gardenAutumn colors surround the treehouseIt looks like a lovely place to take a walk if you need a break.  

US National Arboretum Tree and Shrub Introductions

I ran across the US National Arboretum website again recently, and my attention was caught by the information on introductions to the Nursery trade that have come from there.  There are some we all use and might be surprised came from the National Arboretum (like 'Green Giant' arborvitae, who knew?!), and others that are worth looking out for this coming season, like 'Sun Valley' red maple.  Here are the descriptions of a few of them.

Malus 'Adirondack' (Crabapple) Five hundred open-pollinated seedlings of Malus halliana were artificially inoculated with fire blight under controlled conditions.  Of the sixty surviving seedlings, several showed field resistance to scab, cedar-apple rust, and powdery mildew when exposed to natural inoculum from heavily infected, susceptible plants during eleven years of field trial.  'Adirondack' was selected from this seedling population in 1974 by Donald R. Egolf and released in 1987.  'Adirondack' has a narrow, upright-branched growth habit, abundant, small, persistent fruit, a slow to moderate growth rate, and multiple disease tolerance. This is one for confined spaces, an allee, or next to a walkway.  Even the front border if there's anough space.

  • Height and Width: 18 feet tall and 16 feet crown width at 20 years.
  • Habit: Narrow obovate, upright-branched small tree. Maintains upright form with age.
  • Foliage: Leathery dark green leaves. The foliage is highly tolerant to cedar apple rust, apple scab, and powdery mildew.
  • Flowers: Dark carmine buds mature to a lighter red and open to white, waxy, heavy-textured, wide-spreading flowers with traces of red; slightly fragrant.
  • Fruit: Abundant, bright orange-red, hard, small (1/2-inch) fruit persist until early winter. Relished by birds after softened by freezing.
  • Adaptable to diverse soil, moisture, and climatic conditions. Requires virtually no pruning to maintain its shape nor chemical controls for the common crabapple diseases.

Viburnum X burkwoodii 'Conoy' U.S.D.A. Zones 5b - 8; reliably evergreen in U.S.D.A. Zones 7 - 8.

'Conoy' is a selection from the cross of V. utile with V. x burkwoodii 'Park Farm Hybrid' made in 1968 by Dr. Donald Egolf at the U.S. National Arboretum. Selected for field trial and propagation in 1976, 'Conoy' was named and released in 1988.

'Conoy' is distinguished from other Burkwood viburnum cultivars by its compact growth habit, fine-textured, evergreen foliage, and persistent, abundant, glossy red fruit for approximately 6-8 weeks in the fall.

  • Height and width: 4-5 feet tall and 7-8 feet wide.
  • Habit: Spreading, dense-branched, evergreen shrub.
  • Foliage: Extremely glossy, small, dark green leaves in summer with dark maroon tinge in winter.
  • Flowers: Dark pink buds open to slightly fragrant, cream-white flowers in late April.
  • Fruit: Slightly pendulous clusters of fruit ripen in mid-August to bright red before turning black in October.
  • Grows best in full sun to partial shade in a heavy loam with an adequate moisture supply. Tolerates drought and drier soils extremely well.

Thuja 'Green Giant'  Thuja (standishii x plicata) 'Green Giant'  U.S.D.A. Zones 5–7

In 1967, a single plant reputed to be Thuja (standishii x plicata)was received from D.T. Poulsen, Kvistgaard, Denmark, and planted at the U.S. National Arboretum. This plant exhibited exceptional landscape quality and propagations were distributed. In the distribution process, the name and identity of this clone became confused with that of another arborvitae from the same source, T. occidentalis 'Giganteoides'. The identity of the exceptional clone as the T. (standishii x plicata) hybrid was resolved by Susan Martin, USNA, Kim Trip, New York Botanic Garden, and Robert Marquard, Holden Arboretum, through extensive records searches, nursery inspections, and isozyme analysis. The name Thuja 'Green Giant' was selected to identify and promote this clone.

'Green Giant' is a vigorously growing, pyramidal evergreen with rich green color that remains outstanding throughout hardiness range. It has no serious pest or disease problems and has been widely grown and tested in commercial nursery production. 

  • Height and width: To 60 feet tall with a 12–20 foot spread at maturity; 30 feet at 30 years.
  • Growth rate: Rapid.
  • Habit: Tightly pyramidal to conical evergreen tree; uniform appearance.
  • Foliage: Dense, rich green, scalelike foliage in flattened sprays borne on horizontal to ascending branches; good winter color.
  • Fruit: Persistent, oblong cones, approximately 1/2 inch length. Cones emerge green and mature to brown.
  • Adaptable; grows in soil types from sandy loams to heavy clays. Requires little to no pruning.

The "Girl" Magnolias U.S.D.A. Zones 3 - 8

  • Magnolia (liliflora 'Nigra' x stellata 'Rosea') 'Ann', 'Betty', 'Judy', 'Randy', 'Ricki', 'Susan'
  • Magnolia (liliflora 'Reflorescens' x stellata 'Waterlily') 'Jane' 
  • Magnolia (liliflora 'Reflorescens' x stellata 'Rosea') 'Pinkie' 

'The "Girl Magnolias'' are selections resulting from controlled pollinations of Magnolia liliflora 'Nigra' by M. stellata 'Rosea'; M. liliflora 'Reflorescens' by M. stellata 'Rosea'; and M. liliflora 'Reflorescens' by M. stellata 'Waterlily'.  The crosses were made at the U.S. National Arboretum in 1955 and 1956 by William F. Kosar and Dr. Francis de Vos. All are F1 hybrids and reported to be sterile triploid selections.

These magnolia selections bloom two to four weeks later than M. stellata and M. x soulangiana, reducing the possibility of late spring frost damage. Plants produce flowers with a variety of colors from reddish-purple to pink on white. The unexpected sporadic summer bloom adds landscape interest.  Plants grow best in full sun to light shade; prefer loam soil with adequate moisture; tolerate poorly drained, heavy clay soils or dry areas.

Magnolia 'Jane'Magnolia 'Ann'

Viburnum X burkwoodii 'Mohawk' U.S.D.A. Zones 5b - 8  A backcross of Viburnum x burkwoodii to V. carlesii was made in 1953 by Dr. Donald Egolf.  Seed produced from this cross was embryo-cultured to expedite seedling production.  The cultivar 'Mohawk' was selected from this population in 1960 and released in 1966.

'Mohawk' is distinguished from related cultivars by abundant clusters of glossy, dark red flower buds that are ornamental for several weeks prior to full bloom.  The waxy white flowers with red blotches on the reverse side of the petals have a strong, spicy, clove fragrance.  'Mohawk' has a fairly compact growth habit and foliage resistant to bacterial leaf spot and powdery mildew.  Definitely choose this as your fragrant viburnum if you see it in the Nursery!

  • Height and width: 8 feet tall and 10 feet wide.
  • Habit: Deciduous shrub with spreading branches.
  • Foliage: Glossy, dark green leaves turn a brilliant orange-red in autumn. The foliage is highly tolerant to bacterial leaf spot and powdery mildew.
  • Flowers: Brilliant, glossy red flower buds appear several weeks before the flowers begin to open in late April, extending the effective ornamental period by several weeks. The red of the flower buds contrasts well with the white of the opened flowers and is retained on the reverse of the flower. Flowers have a strong, spicy, clove fragrance. 
  • Fruit: A black drupe.
  • 'Mohawk' grows well in many exposures and soils, but performs best in sun with moderate moisture and well-drained soils.

Acer rubrum 'Sun Valley' U.S.D.A. Zones 4–7 'Sun Valley' resulted from a controlled cross made in 1982 by A.M. Townsend as part of a tree genetics research project examining the inheritance of fall color and leafhopper resistance.  'Sun Valley' is a cross of A.rubrum 'Red Sunset' and A.rubrum 'Autumn Flame'. Released December, 1994.  I saw a whole row of these about 2 years ago at Prospero Nursery in full color, and they were so beautiful.  Completely symmetrical shape and some hints of orange in their red color.  They really looked like a sunset.  Unfortunately, at the time I didn't know anything about this hybrid, so we didn't end up buying one, to my eternal regret!

  • Height and Width: 21 feet tall, 10 feet wide at 10 years.
  • Habit: Medium-sized deciduous tree.  Symmetrical ovate crown.
  • Foliage: Brilliant red, exceptionally long- lasting (2 weeks or more) with peak color in the 3rd to 4th week of October, about 1 week before 'October Glory'.  Medium green leaves in summer. 
  • Bark: Light grey and smooth when young; turning dark grey with age. 
  • Flowers: Male, early spring.
  • Adaptable to a wide range of soil conditions. Prefer slightly acid, moist soils.  

2015 Perennial Plant of the Year - Geranium x cantabrigiense 'Biokovo'

Geranium X cantabrigiense 'Biokovo' in flower

The Perennial Plant Association membership has voted and the 2015 Perennial Plant of the Year™ is  Geranium X cantabrigiense ‘Biokovo’.

 ’Biokovo’ is a naturally occurring hybrid of Geranium dalmaticum and Geranium macrorrhizum found in the Dalmatia region of present-day Croatia.  It blooms in late spring with masses of 5-petaled white flowers, about ¾” diameter, that are tinged pink at the base of each petal and have darker pink center stamens.  An interesting feature is that the sepals that are redder than the petals, so that when the flower opens the lightly tinged pink flowers provide a nice contrast to the sepals and stamens.  It blooms from mid-May to late July.

G. X cantabrigiense has aromatic foliage and rounded leaf edges and is semi-evergreen in most climates.  It has a spreading habit and is rhizomatous, i.e. it spreads by sending out runners.  It grows to 6-10 inches high, with a spread of about 2 feet.  It can be used as a ground cover that spreads fairly rapidly through the perennial bed or as an edger in the front of the border.  It also does well in rock gardens.  It tolerates full sun to part-shade conditions.  Its foliage turns scarlet and orange in the fall. 

Another G. X cantabrigiense variety is 'Karmina', because sometimes it matters what color the flowers are!

Geranium X cantabrigiense 'Karmina', seen below, has carmine-red flowers.

The general qualities of Geranium species (commone name "cranesbill") include: 

  • Deer Resistant (OK, yes, nothing is completely deer-resistant; it is in many places I've planted it)
  • Many varieties tolerate some shade
  • Bloom for 4 weeks or more 
  • Rabbit Resistant (again, it depends, but in general they leave it alone)
  • Flowers attract butterflies
  • Can be used as groundcovers (low spreaders) or bed-fillers (taller varieties)
  • Need little care and no division
  • Excellent mounding habit as they first start in spring, and some varieties maintain that habit.  
  • Deeply cut foliage; flowers with interesting veining patterns. 
  • They can be deadheaded after blooming, or the tops of the plants can be sheared back to new growth to stimulate re-bloom and freshen foliage.  
  • Many varieties have beautiful red, burgundy or orange fall color that is a stand-out if the plant has been allowed to weave intself throught the garden bed.

Other types of geranium that are useful in different garden contexts, are hardy and fairly care-free include:

  • Geranium macrorrhizum (Bigroot Geranium), Z 3-8, 15-18" in height, native to southern Europe, large laromatic leaves.  Varieties include 'Bevan's Variety' and 'Ingwersen's Variety', seen in the series of pictures below:

G. macrorrhizum 'Bevan's Variety'

G. macrorrhizhum 'Ingwersen's Variety'

G. macrorrhizum fall foliage color

  • Geranium pratense (Meadow Cranesbill), Z 5-7, 24-36" tall, purple flowers from reddish veins on dark blue petals, native to northern Europe, may need staking.  Some cultivars have dark foliage; need sun for optimal foliage color.   Clump-former; blooms May – July.  Cultivars include 'Dark Reiter',  'Midnight Reiter', 'Summer Skies', 'Purple Haze', 'Mrs. Kendall Clark', 'Splish Splash'.  G. praetense does spread by seed, so it can pop up here and there throughout the garden - that may be a desirable trait if you're trying to get it to fill in, or an undesirable trait if you only want it in a certain place.

G. praetense 'Midnight Reiter'

  • Geranium sanguineum (Bloody Cranesbill) Z 3-8, 9-12", magenta flowers in spring, native to Europe and Asia, tolerates heat and drought; deeply divided leaves, bright red fall color, blooms in spring.  Varieties include 'Striatum', 'Max Frei', 'Ankum's Pride'.

G. sanguineum 'Max Frei'

  • Geranium wlassovianum Z 5-8, 18-24" tall; One of the first hardy Geraniums to bloom and one of the last to stop. Dusky violet flowers with deeper veining and a white eye. Fall brings outstanding deep red tones. Trails gently.  Will adapt to most soil conditions provided there is good drainage and some moisture. Nice massed as a groundcover, in rock gardens or as an informal edger. Completely carefree.

G. wlassovianumG. wlassovianum fall foliage color

  •  And, of course, Geranium X 'Rozeanne' seen below.  Unbelievable quantities of large, violet-blue blooms from June until frost; hardy to Z5; 20" tall with a 2 foot spread; bluish-purple flowers are heightened by black anthers, magenta veins and a radiant white eye. Fiery red leaves in autumn; withstands sunny, hot sites and is happy just about anywhere, from an exposed border to a container.  'Rozeanne' is a naturally occurring sterile hybrid of Geranium himalayense and Geranium wallichianum ‘Buxton’s Variety’.  Lynden Miller says "No garden should be without Geranium 'Rozeanne'."
Reflections-on-nature-Cranesbill.jpg

Insect Hotels

One of the things that everyone's been thinking about in the world of landscape design is how to protect the pollinators and encourage "good bugs" so that our gardens and landscapes will be healthier and more sustainable.  Some homeowners are in the habit of "cleaning up" the garden within an inch of its life, leaving no leaf litter or dormant perennial stalks, no fallen trees or piles of sticks - blowing it all away down to the bare dirt.  This may create a "tidy" look, and it may "take less time" to use a leaf blower than a rake, but there are SO MANY reasons not to do this!  Leaving aside the air and noise pollution created by leaf blowers, their health hazards to those who use them, and the soil compaction that results from having 180 mph hot air blown at it - what about the habitat that's being taken away?

Insects of all kinds need places to overwinter and to create their nests.  If there are no nooks and crannies, no hollow stems, no rotting logs, no decaying leaves available, those pollinators and beneficial bugs will leave your yard and find somewhere else to be.  Poof - no pollination for you!

The good news is that you can create habitats for beneficial insects by collecting natural or salvaged materials into one place, where multiple types of insects can overwinter and nest.  They're easy and fun to make yourself, and can become works of art if you want them to be.  Maybe more attractive and effective in a small yard than keeping a not-very-extensive "wild area" somewhere.  You may have to replace some of the elements every late-summer, but its a great way to "recycle" old bricks, leftover stone, tile shingles or old crates.  You can make pruned branches or old firewood into art just by arranging it in an orderly fashion.  Add some pinecones and some cut pieces of bamboo.  If you have leftover wood, drill holes into a block of wood to create habitat for bees who nest in hollows.

If you google "insect hotel" you'll come up with some pictures and some instructions - then let your imagination take over.  Pay attention, though, to where to place (or to build) your insect hotel once its finished - the insects will need afternoon sun to keep warm.

Here's a simple example about how stacking some old bricks in an unused part of your garden bed then inserting twigs, hollow stems and dried grasses in an orderly fashion creates both art and habitat.

These are some of the elements you can include:

  • A compartment with a red-colored slitted door filled with wheat straw will attract Green lacewings, ladybugs and earwigs and provide them with a place to hibernate from the middle of September until early April. Lacewings devour aphids and other pests such as scale insects, many types of caterpillar and mites.  Another way to make a good lacewing habitat is by rolling up a piece of corrugated cardboard and putting it in a waterproof cylinder, such as an old plastic bottle. 
  • Lots of different kinds of bees make their nests in hollow sticks, hollow plant stems or holes in wood made by wood-boring insects.  Mason bees (Osmia), masked bees (Hylaeus) and solitary wild bees all will use different diameters of holes.  There are many different species of solitary bee, all are excellent pollinators. The female bee lays an egg on top of a mass of pollen at the end of a hollow tube, she then seals the entrance with a plug of mud.  A long tube can hold several such cells.   
  • A compartment filled with pine cones provides lots of safe spaces for lots of differenet insects, including garden spiders.
  • Dead wood is an increasingly rare habitat as we tidy our gardens, parks and woodlands. It is essential for the larvae of wood-boring beetles, such as the stag beetle.  It also supports many fungi, which help break down the woody material.  Crevices under the bark hold centipedes and woodlice.  Place rotting logs at the base of your hotel so the logs stay nice and damp and mix with other decaying plant matter to attract centipedes (which devour slugs) and other woodland litter insects such as millipedes and woodlice (which will provide a welcome source of food for birds). This is also a great spot for garden spiders.
  • Frog hole.  Frogs eat many slugs and other garden pests.  Although they need a pond to breed in, they can spend most of the year out of water.  We use stone and tiles as these provide the cool damp conditions amphibians need.  Newts may also take advantage of these conditions.  Amphibians need a frost-free place to spend the winter; this could be in the center of the habitat you create, inside the base of a dry-stone wall, under a pile of rubble or deep underground. 
  • Straw and Hay provide many opportunities for invertebrates to burrow in and find safe hibernation sites. 
  • Twigs, sticks and stems: Bundled together, sticks and twigs of different sizes offer welcome lodgings for ground beetles. These beetles chomp away at many of the pests that attack our crops, including aphids and carrot root fly larvae.  You'll also be offering a vacancy to ladybugs, which eat aphids and mites.  The adults hibernate over winter; they need dry sticks or leaves to hide in. Hoverflies will also be attracted to this type of material.  Hoverflies are both pollinator and pest patroller – the larvae carry an insatiable appetite for aphids while the adults feed on nectar as they pollinate flowers.
  • Loose bark is a habitat for beetles, centipedes, spiders and woodlice, who all lurk underneath the decaying wood and bark. They help to break down woody plant material and recycle it back into compost.
  • Dry leaves mimic the litter on the forest floor and provide homes for a variety of invertebrates.
  • Crevices are important places for hibernation through the winter.  Make sure your insect hotel has plenty of different types of crannies and crevices.
  • Bumblebees. Every spring queen bumblebees search for a site to build a nest and found a new colony. An upturned flowerpot in a warm sheltered place might be used. 

Seen below in the picture is a FABULOUS idea - incorporate both a mini "green roof" and insect habitat to construct a decorative stacked-stone wall.  This one looks like it might be one of two that define an entry into the next garden room - which looks like it might be a meadow.

Which reminds us that we need larval foods and nectar-producing flowers as part of the habitat as well.  Make 2015 the year when you do something artistic and whimsical to protect the pollinators!

Winter Dormancy and Cold-Hardiness - How woody plants survive winter

Winter dormancy of woody plants is based on their ability to track photoperiod, air temperature and soil temperature.  Once in a dormant state, the plant goes on to develop cold resistance, also referred to as "cold-hardening" or "cold-hardiness".  Dormancy happens before the cold-hardening process starts, usually in about September for woody plants.  The first stage of dormancy is called "endodormancy" – plants stop growing so that they can reconfigure their gene expression towards the acquisition of cold tolerance.  During endodormancy, internal signals and processes within the plant prevent growth, even if the plant is returned to growth-promoting external conditions.  In other words, during endodormancy buds simply can't grow.  This prevents the initiation of new shoot growth from buds in autumn, when the environment can rapidly fluctuate between growth-promoting and non-promoting conditions – that would be a waste of precious energy for the plant.

Cold-hardening* refers to environmentally- and hormonally-regulated changes in gene expression that lead to changes in metabolism and cellular functioning to protect cells from damage due to dehydration and freezing.  It occurs in two stages over a period of weeks to months.  Stage 1 occurs when temperatures are between 10 - 20 °C (50 – 68 °F) and includes a shift on gene expression towards storage of reserve carbohydrates and lipids.  Stage 2 is promoted by colder temperatures and involves the accumulation of cryoprotectant substances (natural "antifreeze"), as well as changes in membrane lipids and structural changes in bud anatomy.  Because cold-hardening requires energy, a plant may not be able to become fully cold-hardened if it is diseased or stressed such that there are low amounts of reserve carbohydrates.

Bud dormancy is only broken by exposure to cold temperatures – i.e. by a period of chilling.  The plant senses "chill" (temperatures below "biological zero" 41 °F; 5 °C).  Although freezing is not required, freezing temperatures during endodormancy can break dormancy faster.  Likewise, intermittent warm days during endodormancy delay dormancy release.  Between 1000 and 2000 hours of chilling are required for most woody plants in temperate zones, varying by species.  A combination of photoperiod (increasing day length) and adequate chilling leads to dormancy release.  The buds now enter a period referred to as "ecodormancy" – meaning that growth is arrested by environmental conditions that are not conducive to growth.  As soon as conditions become favorable, growth can occur.

The overall process goes something like this:

 • The plant needs to form buds so that it can generate vegetative growth (leaves) next year, because leaves are where photosynthesis occurs – i.e. where food is made by the plant.  Setting buds requires the plant to use energy, and occurs during the plant's active growth period.

• Bud formation is signaled by plant hormones under the control of temperature and photoperiod.   

• As days shorten and temperatures decrease, buds enter a dormant state (endodormancy), during which they stop growing and instead develop cold resistance – a metabolic process that requires the plant to use its energy reserves.  Plants break down proteins and other chemicals that were stored in their leaves during the growing season and store them in buds, bark and wood for growth next spring.  These stored forms of energy will function when temperatures are near-freezing and can survive freezing and thawing in the winter.  

• One consequence of this change in metabolism in many woodies is a change in leaf color – accessory pigments that helped protect chlorophyll from sunlight damage are released and become visible.

• During this period of endodormancy, buds cannot grow, and that's a way that the plant protects itself from expending energy on growth that will more than likely be killed by cold temperatures.

• Buds need extended both exposure to cold temperatures ("chilling") and increasing day length to break dormancy and re-establish their growth competence.

• On fruit trees, if the buds do not receive adequate chilling, there will be no flowers and no fruit.  Fruit tree breeders are developing low-chill-requiring cultivars so that as global warming progresses fruit can still be grown in temperate climates.

• When photoperiod and chill requirements have been met, buds break endodormancy.  Nonetheless, buds remain "ecodormant" – i.e. capable of growth but not actively growing – until they are exposed to warm temperatures (both soil and air) for a critical period before shoot extension and initial leaf emergence.  This is an energy-requiring process that draws on the plant's energy reserves.  Once new leaves begin to emerge, they are susceptible to being killed by frost.

 • Within a given species, there can be both northern and southern "eco-types" with different chilling requirements.  For example, while a red maple from a cold part of its range may need 2000 hours of chilling to break endodormancy, a red maple from a warm part of its range may need less than 1000 hours of chilling.  If you transplant a red maple grown in the warmer part of its range to the colder part of its range, it will only be in ecodormancy during most of the winter (because its chill requirement is quickly met and then its endodormancy is governed only by photoperiod).  If the winter is mild, it may leaf out, then have those leaves killed by a spring frost.  The maple grown in the cold part of its range and transplanted to another location in the cold part of its range will have a chill requirement that means it will remain endodormant longer during a mild winter, and therefore be less likely to leaf out "early". 

*Footnote: "Cold-hardening" is not to be confused with "hardiness zone".  Saying that a plant is "cold-hardy to Zone 4", for example, describes its potential to be able to resist cold damage – i.e. the lowest temperature it can withstand – a function of its particular genetic make-up.  However, even "cold-hardy" plants must undergo the "cold-hardening" process over and over again each winter.